Approaching Ciudad Del Este, we were amazed at its size. After the small Puerto de Iguazu, we didn´t expect such a big city here. Going into town, you have to cross a bridge. We were in trafficjam. We passed by the office de migracion, but the busdriver, other than at leaving Argentina half an hour earlier, didn´t make any attempt to stop the bus and all the other passengers didn´t move, so we thought it would be normal to just pass. The migration would be happening later was what we thought. But it never did!
Arriving at the terminal de bus of Ciudad Del Este was a shock. On the one hand side there is a big street with many Chevrolets, Jeeps, Mercedes and even Jaguars passing by. On the other side of the street is a wild area. It is full of dirt, smells aweful and there are many small huts just made out of plastic and garbage, favela. Two sides of one country. Well, Paraguay is supposed to be the most corrupted country in the world!
We didn´t even have to take a close look at busses at the busstation. We were called by several men: "Asuncion, Asuncion, here, here!" and we followed. We were hurled into a bus, a comfortable one, and payed our last Argentinian Pesos: 50,- each, for the 6 hour ride from Ciudad Del Este to Asuncion.
We arrived at Asuncion and took a taxi to the hostal we had picked from the Lonely planet, the Pension Da Silva. There, we were greeted by an elderly, very nice lady, Senora Da Silva in her big home, colonial style. We had our own big room with huge ventilator at the ceiling for 50.000 Guaraní (about 7,- Euros) / night / person. We told the senora about our problem with not having the migration-stamps. She said "No problemo! The migration-office is not far away, you can just go there and get your stamps." But we arrived on a Friday, they are closed on Saturday and Sunday, and Monday is the national holiday, so they are still closed. Try on Tuesday! Thus, we were stuck in Asuncion for four days.
We had a hard time in Asuncion. Not, that we were robbed or harrassed or anything, but the town seemed to be absolutely deserted. Asuncion is the capital of Paraguay, and, compared to all the other towns we have seen so far, it is the quietest town of all. Going through the streets, the people were staring at us. In Bolivia, they smile, in Argentina they say "Hola" in Uruguay they do both. In Paraguay, the few people we met on the streets were only staring at us as if we were from Mars. Scary! And the Lonely planet says, not to go out on the weekend or on a holiday, because of the danger of being robbed on the streets in daylight. So we didn´t and the days passed by with us staying in the Pension Da Silva, where we felt save. We only visited the congresshall, two blocks away. And leaning on the walls of this big building start the favelas, small, poor huts. We only took a look, but a policeofficer came and told us to go away, it is dangerous. Imagine the Brandenburger Tor and slums right next to it. It´s hard to imagine.
Tuesday morning arrived and we went to the Ministerio de Migracion in the capital of the country. I repeat: The Ministerio de Migracion in the capital of the country. We went, explained the situation and asked to get the stamps here, please. "No, that is not possible!" was the answer. "WHAT? Not possible?" I asked again. "No, it is not possible. You have to go to the border and get the stamp there, and you will have to pay 35,- US Dollars to be able to leave." Wow, we didn´t expect that!
We bought the bustickets (230.000 Guaraní / person), drew eighty dollars from the cashmashine and took the bus at 7:30 p.m. to Santa Cruz.
That was the worst busride we had. The road was fine and so was the bus but the feeling inside, the nervousness was one of the worst I´ve had in a long time. Like having to write a big exam which you didn´t prepare well for. In Asuncion, a belgish guy had told us stories, that he had to wait at the border for hours to get through, that all of his luggage had been searched and that maybe, we would have to go back to Ciudad Del Este to get the stamp! Ciudad Del Este is on the other side of the country, two very expensive busrides in this staring country away. No, we didn´t want that! But in a situation like that, you are completely depending on the mood of the front-officer and that is an aweful feeling! I was nervous, nervous, nervous for hours.
At about 2:00 at night, in the middle of nowhere, we arrived at the migration-station at the border from Paraguay to Bolivia. That is in the middle of the Chaco, look it up, it´s the big nothing! We got off the bus, and an officer collected all our passports. We didn´t tell him. We had to stand in line. Every passenger was called, one by one, into a small room, shut the door behind you, please. But they all came out fine, with their passports in their hands. The line was getting shorter, we were pretty much at the end. Then, all of a sudden, the busdriver went into the hut. He talked to the officers and they were laughing. Good, better than yelling! Then it was Nadèges turn. She went in and... I couldn´t see it. Well, she told me later on. The officer was looking through her passport, trying to find the stamp. Nadège said, that she didn´t have it, and her friend, me, not as well. So the officer said, "that is a problem. but the problem can be solved, by paying 40,- US Dollars." Well, Nadège paid, got her stamp and they let her go. I had to go through the same procedure. "You don´t have the stamp." "No." "That costs you 40,- US Dollars." "OK, I have them here." And I paid, got my stamp and left the office with my passport in my hands, butterflies in the stomach and a grin on my face.
We made three crosses and preyed three Ave Marias when we were back in the bus in the direction of Santa Cruz. Out of Paraguay, FREEDOM!
Now we are here in Santa Cruz, Bolivia. It is hot and we enjoy just to be here. We might as well have been sent back to Ciudad Del Este. We would have arrived in Asuncion for a second time by now. What a difference!
More stories from Bolivia will follow.
For now,
enjoy your freedom
Stefan